Split by the Danube between hilly Buda and lively Pest, Budapest amazes with thermal baths, ruin bars and majestic architecture at unbeatable prices.
Budapest is two cities in one: Buda on the hill with the Castle and Fisherman's Bastion, and Pest on the plain with the Parliament, ruin bars and legendary nightlife. The Danube separates and unites them, creating spectacular views, especially at night when the bridges light up.
Spring and autumn. December for markets. Winter is cold but the baths make up for it.
Gulyás (goulash), lángos (fried dough with cheese), kürtőskalács (chimney cake), chicken paprikash and cakes from historic patisseries (Gerbeaud, New York Café). Local beer and Tokaji wine are excellent and cheap.
The Jewish Quarter for ruin bars (Szimpla Kert is the most famous). Buda Castle for views. Margaret Island for relaxation. Andrássy Avenue for elegant shopping. The Central Market for local food.
Budapest Liszt Ferenc (BUD), bus 100E to the centre in 30 minutes.